Deeply proud of my Irish heritage (the original spelling of my last name was Ó hÍceadha), I’ve long thought that March was meant for Whiskey, Guinness, and the soda bread that I bake every year. I was wrong. Here is a recent discovery for me—the Irish have been quietly shaping the wine industry for centuries, leaving their mark on some of the world’s most prestigious vineyards and spirits. From the legendary châteaux of Bordeaux to the sun-soaked vines of Napa Valley and Australia, Irish immigrants have played an outsized role in the global wine trade—often with a glass of something stronger on the side.
To understand how the Irish became so deeply intertwined with the wine industry, we have to go back to the late 17th century. After the Williamite Wars, thousands of Irish soldiers, merchants, and nobles fled Ireland rather than live under Protestant English rule. These exiles, known as the Wild Geese, spread across Europe—many joining the armies of Catholic nations like France and Spain, while others pursued business and trade. A significant number of these Wild Geese found their way to Bordeaux, already a major wine hub. Over time, some transitioned from military service to winemaking and trade—establishing vineyards and négociant businesses that would go on to shape the French wine industry. Their contributions became so significant that they earned a name of their own—the Wine Geese.
Perhaps the most famous of the Wine Geese is the Barton family, who arrived in France over 300 years ago and are still making wine today—while proudly retaining their Irish citizenship. Their holdings include Château Léoville Barton and Château Langoa Barton, two of the most highly regarded estates in Bordeaux’s Médoc region. Unlike many other historic Bordeaux properties, which have changed hands multiple times, Léoville Barton remains in family ownership—a rare feat in the wine world. Then there’s Richard Hennessy, an Irishman from County Cork who followed a path familiar to many Irishmen of his time: military service. Like many of the Wild Geese, he fought for King Louis XV and, after his military career, settled in Cognac. Recognizing the potential of the local brandy trade, he founded Hennessy Cognac in 1765—what started as a small trading business evolved into the world’s leading Cognac house, with Hennessy becoming a staple in everything from royal courts to hip-hop lyrics.
Across the Atlantic, Irish influence wasn’t just shaping the wine world in France—it was also making an impact in the heart of American wine country. One of the most significant Irish contributions to the U.S. wine industry comes from Concannon Vineyard, founded in 1883 by James Concannon. He left Ireland at the age of 18 and settled in California. His vineyard in Livermore Valley was one of the first in California to plant Bordeaux grape varieties from vines he sourced himself from Bordeaux that included such illustrious origins as Château Margaux and Château d’Yquem. His most lasting impact on American wine came in the mid-20th century, when Concannon Vineyard played a key role in developing Cabernet Sauvignon clones 7, 8, and 11. These clones, derived from vines from the vineyard that he planted long ago with those precious Bordeaux cuttings, became the backbone of Napa Valley’s Cabernet Sauvignon plantings. Today, an estimated 80% of Napa’s Cabernet Sauvignon vines can trace their lineage back to Concannon’s work.
Fast forward a few centuries, and the Irish weren’t just making waves in France and America—they were shaping the future of winemaking in Australia, too. Jim Barry is one of the most famous names in Australian wine, and his Clare Valley winery has deep Irish roots. Established in 1959, Jim Barry Wines became a benchmark producer of Riesling and Shiraz—the famed Armagh Shiraz, named after the Irish county, remains one of Australia’s most celebrated wines. But Clare Valley isn’t the only Australian region with Irish connections. In Victoria, Tahbilk Winery—one of the country’s oldest continuously operating wineries—was purchased in 1925 by the Purbrick family, descendants of Irish immigrants. Their stewardship helped establish Tahbilk as a leader in both Shiraz and the rare Marsanne grape. In South Australia, Thomas Hardy—often called the father of the South Australian wine industry—was born to an Irish family in Devon, England, before emigrating. Hardy founded Hardy’s Wines in 1853, laying the foundation for what would become one of Australia’s largest and most successful wine businesses.
While the Irish might not be the first people you associate with wine, their influence is undeniable—whether in Bordeaux’s grand châteaux, the Cognac houses of southwest France, the rolling vineyards of Napa, or the sun-drenched terroir of Australia, Irish immigrants have shaped the industry in ways that still resonate today.
So, the next time you pour a glass of Bordeaux or Napa Cabernet Sauvignon, sip on a Cognac, or enjoy an Australian Shiraz, raise a toast to the Irish—because chances are, they had a hand in making it happen. Sláinte!
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